Maybelline founder Tom Lyle Williams

Showing posts with label Magic Mascara. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Magic Mascara. Show all posts

GAME ON! Maybelline's tremendous success in the 1960s By Harris A. Neil Jr.

Thus, the Maybelline environment, both internal and external, became the stage of activity as I joined the company in early 1959.

Very quickly John Cole introduced me around and toured the entire facility with me, from stem to stern. One of the first things I recall in looking back is Dorothy Molander asking me how often I wanted to be paid. How often? Yes, she said, some of us like a weekly check, some twice monthly, whatever you’d like. I had never heard of anything like that before or since, and I quickly opted for a weekly check. After all, I was broke.

Right after I started our Assembly Supervisor, Hazel Peterson, retired. It was just a coincidence but it put that part of the operation in a new and untested direction. Even though I was new, John asked me to “be the eyes and ears” of what would become the Production Department.

All of this moved along while the brand-new “Magic Mascara” was giving all facets of the company plenty of challenges. The several suppliers of packaging and product components were on maximum output, and the private label contractor came on line very quickly after the aborted start on Maybelline premises. Juluis Wagman, Chief Chemist, had set this up across town, and a small private-label outfit called Munk Chemical Company. This arrangement not only worked for the moment, the relationship between Munk and Maybelline grew over the years to encompass many new products. You name it, if it was a liquid product Munk was in the picture. As Maybelline grew, so did Munk.

New products began to roll out in rapid succession. It seemed that we’d just about catch up to volume from one blockbuster and another one, even bigger, was coming down
 the pipeline.


 If we could single one over the others, it would have to be Ultra-Lash Mascara, with a newer applicator brush and formulation. We chased after that one for months before volume leveled out, at a very high volume that never went down. It had to be the prime money-maker for the company from roll-out to the Plough merger and beyond.

(NOTE: The “money-maker” reference above is speculation only. I was not privy to the company’s finances except to track direct labor production costs.)

As this volume grew and new products came along, Tom Lyle Williams Jr., John and Harold “Rags” Ragland, Sales Vice President, worked together in their respective roles to improve the appearance and form of product packaging into a new, uniform appearance. Simplified, the whole product line (except for most Introductory sizes) soon went to market blister-packed on bright-white product cards, either in direct shipments or shipments coupled with carousel display stands that Rags had developed.

 They were called “Eye Fashion Centers”and they included a full array of the Maybelline line, insuring that retailers had a complete, balanced line of products.

This growth also required changes in the internal operation. Where packages had been mostly hand-assembled in all history, now blister packaging quickly became the dominant method. The equipment available for this new packaging setup was quite new, because the concept itself was just moving into the marketplace. It applied to many, many product lines, not merely cosmetics. Such other lines as writing instruments, batteries, shaving products, electronics, on and on, it was the way to go on all retail fronts.

Eventually, in order to get maximum production out of our square footage, we ended up after several generations of machinery, with a small, one-man company who was starting with a new and interesting machine. The company became Alloyd, Incorporated, and the machine produced 60 packages a minute. When we worked into this new machine we found in some cases that we could make “two-up” dies, thus increasing production to over 100 packages per minute. This advancement bought time for the company in the limited and unchanging space that production occupied in the building.

Even with these changes and improvements, time and space were both running out for the company. By 1966 it became painfully obvious that we had come close to outgrowing the “cracker box.” In early 1967 as I recall, Tom located and purchased a plot of suitable land on Algonquin Road outside Chicago, beyond O’Hare Field. He also engaged an architectural firm, Rabig and Ramp, to begin design work and develop preliminary plans for a new facility. Also, John Cole made contact with selected commercial realty companies to scour the existing inventory of properties for a possible facility.

I remember going with John and a real estate agent to a building in Chicago that had beenvacated by Kitchens of Sara Lee when they moved to their own new facility in suburban Deerfield. It was obvious that Sara Lee had left that building in the same predicament that was facing Maybelline. It had been subdivided, repurposed, overworked, and just plain worn out. When John and I left that place we never talked about it again. There wasn't anything to talk about, really.

As this period of growth moved along, all of our jobs moved with it. Even without formal guidelines, it was the natural position of the company to keep staffing “thin,” with no bureaucratic build-up. A good example was with Rags, who managed the national sales and marketing function with only one assistant, Carle Rollins, and an executive secretary, Gladys Johnson. John’s staff consisted of myself, and an excellent administrative and inventory person named Joan Lundell. In turn, Joan had one clerical helper.


In my case, my job began to “transition” to accommodate both the company’s growth and also new tasks that became necessary with that growth. I remember on day, back in 1961, when I got a carbon copy of a letter John had written to a supplier. In it he referred to me as our “Production Manager.” That was new to me but I liked it, and that became my title from then on.

ULTRA LASH MASCARA was Maybelline's prime money maker in the 1960s



4. GAME ON!
By Harris A. Neil Jr.

Harris A Neil Jr with his son
 Harris Neil Jr . lll

Thus, the Maybelline environment, both internal and external, became the stage of activity as I joined the company in early 1959.

Very quickly John Cole introduced me around and toured the entire facility with me, from stem to stern. One of the first things I recall in looking back is Dorothy Molander asking me how often I wanted to be paid. How often? Yes, she said, some of us like a weekly check, some twice monthly, whatever you’d like. I had never heard of anything like that before or since, and I quickly opted for a weekly check. After all, I was broke.

Right after I started our Assembly Supervisor, Hazel Peterson, retired. It was just a coincidence but it put that part of the operation in a new and untested direction. Even though I was new, John asked me to “be the eyes and ears” of what would become the Production Department.

All of this moved along while the brand-new “Magic Mascara” was giving all facets of the company plenty of challenges. The several suppliers of packaging and product components were on maximum output, and the private label contractor came on line very quickly after the aborted start on Maybelline premises. Juluis Wagman, Chief Chemist, had set this up across town, and a small private-label outfit called Munk Chemical Company. This arrangement not only worked for the moment, the relationship between Munk and Maybelline grew over the years to encompass many new products. You name it, if it was a liquid product Munk was in the picture. As Maybelline grew, so did Munk.

New products began to roll out in rapid succession. It seemed that we’d just about catch up to volume from one blockbuster and another one, even bigger, was coming down
 the pipeline.


 If we could single one over the others, it would have to be Ultra-Lash Mascara, with a newer applicator brush and formulation. We chased after that one for months before volume leveled out, at a very high volume that never went down. It had to be the prime money-maker for the company from roll-out to the Plough merger and beyond.

(NOTE: The “money-maker” reference above is speculation only. I was not privy to the company’s finances except to track direct labor production costs.)

As this volume grew and new products came along, Tom Lyle Williams Jr., John and Harold “Rags” Ragland, Sales Vice President, worked together in their respective roles to improve the appearance and form of product packaging into a new, uniform appearance. Simplified, the whole product line (except for most Introductory sizes) soon went to market blister-packed on bright-white product cards, either in direct shipments or shipments coupled with carousel display stands that Rags had developed.

 They were called “Eye Fashion Centers” and they included a full array of the Maybelline line, insuring that retailers had a complete, balanced line of products.

This growth also required changes in the internal operation. Where packages had been mostly hand-assembled in all history, now blister packaging quickly became the dominant method. The equipment available for this new packaging setup was quite new, because the concept itself was just moving into the marketplace. It applied to many, many product lines, not merely cosmetics. Such other lines as writing instruments, batteries, shaving products, electronics, on and on, it was the way to go on all retail fronts.

Eventually, in order to get maximum production out of our square footage, we ended up after several generations of machinery, with a small, one-man company who was starting with a new and interesting machine. The company became Alloyd, Incorporated, and the machine produced 60 packages a minute. When we worked into this new machine we found in some cases that we could make “two-up” dies, thus increasing production to over 100 packages per minute. This advancement bought time for the company in the limited and unchanging space that production occupied in the building.

Even with these changes and improvements, time and space were both running out for the company. By 1966 it became painfully obvious that we had come close to outgrowing the “cracker box.” In early 1967 as I recall, Tom located and purchased a plot of suitable land on Algonquin Road outside Chicago, beyond O’Hare Field. He also engaged an architectural firm, Rabig and Ramp, to begin design work and develop preliminary plans for a new facility. Also, John Cole made contact with selected commercial realty companies to scour the existing inventory of properties for a possible facility.

I remember going with John and a real estate agent to a building in Chicago that had been vacated by Kitchens of Sara Lee when they moved to their own new facility in suburban Deerfield. It was obvious that Sara Lee had left that building in the same predicament that was facing Maybelline. It had been subdivided, repurposed, overworked, and just plain worn out. When John and I left that place we never talked about it again. There wasn't anything to talk about, really.

As this period of growth moved along, all of our jobs moved with it. Even without formal guidelines, it was the natural position of the company to keep staffing “thin,” with no bureaucratic build-up. A good example was with Rags, who managed the national sales and marketing function with only one assistant, Carle Rollins, and an executive secretary, Gladys Johnson. John’s staff consisted of myself, and an excellent administrative and inventory person named Joan Lundell. In turn, Joan had one clerical helper.

In my case, my job began to “transition” to accommodate both the company’s growth and also new tasks that became necessary with that growth. I remember on day, back in 1961, when I got a carbon copy of a letter John had written to a supplier. In it he referred to me as our “Production Manager.” That was new to me but I liked it, and that became my title from then on.

Stay tuned tomorrow for part 5, as the plot thickens. 

The Maybelline Company was indeed much bigger than it appeared.



3. THE INVISIBLE MAYBELLINE COMPANY - By Harris A. Neil Jr.



Anyone who visited the facility we looked at in the previous section would question how a dominant company in the cosmetics industry could possibly operate out of such a “cracker box.” Well, the secret had to be in the sprawling, nationwide network of suppliers and private-label companies that supported the company’s packaging and distribution activity. By careful vendor selection, scheduling and follow-up, Maybelline could indeed make itself bigger by far than it looked. It’s beyond my recollection to go through all of the suppliers that made up this extension of the company. It is, however, possible to look at a few examples and companies that stand out:

Deluxe Mascara, as described by Sharrie Williams in The Maybelline Story, had been a part of Maybelline back in history, but was now a separate company, located a few miles from the Maybelline building. Tom Hewes and Jim Hughes, brothers-in-law, operated the company and supplied all cake mascara to Maybelline. The market was not kind to cake mascara, probably because liquid mascara dominated, so in a sense Maybelline was not doing Deluxe any favors. There was no changing the movements of the market, although cake mascara must have had its loyal users, as it stayed in the line and sold in modest but diminishing volume.

Avon Products (yes, that Avon) supplied Maybelline with Sable Brown cream mascara in all sizes, as well as all shades of cream eye shadow. This was an historic relationship, probably going all the way back to T. L. and Noel Williams. At first Avon filled these products in their facility in Middletown, N. Y., but soon after I started John was able to get them to move this production to their local plant in suburban Chicago. The two companies had a close relationship, and had a totally different approach to the marketplace.

Plastofilm, Inc. provided all thermoformed blisters for our packaging operation. The blisters were formed of butyrate plastic, although that’s not how it started. Originally Plastofilm wasn’t even in the thermoforming business. The founder was in the medical x-ray game, chemically “washing” the photographic
surface from the acetate film for the value of the silver it contained, and only later went into thermoforming to reclaim the clear film. That explained why we’d get a picture of a broken bone once in a while in their inbound shipments. Nearly all packaging was blister-packed as time went on, so our volume with Plastofilm was huge. Also, the blisters were a high-cube commodity and strained our limited storage, so we ended up with daily shipments from them as our volume grew.

Anchor Brush Company, another supplier that went back to T. L.’s day, was a brush company as the name implies. However, over time it also went into plastic molding, and ended up doing a wide variety of packaging and product components for Maybelline. Think of the Magic Mascara and Ultra-Lash caps and “barrels,” and that’s the kind of thing they did.

Edwards and Deutsch, a Chicago printer, printed the classic white Maybelline cards with the familiar “eye” in the upper left corner. We ordered large quantities at a time, and they would send proof sheets as each run started, for our inspection and approval. They’d cover my office floor like so much linoleum, and we’d scan and measure them for corrections or approval.

Those are just a handful of examples of our national supply network. In their cases and all others we’d place major annual requirements orders, then “release” periodic smaller orders against the annual order for ongoing production. The frequency of these orders varied, from quarterly in low-volume packaging parts down to twice-weekly or even daily for high volume, high-cube supplies.

Throughout my tenure with the company, there was very little turnover among the many suppliers. This in no small part was to John Cole’s credit, who maintained good communications across the board and kept misunderstandings to a minimum.  

Thus we see both the internal and the external side of the Maybelline Company as I came into the picture in early 1959. Both of them would keep me busy for the next nine-plus years.

Stay tuned tomorrow for part 4 of Harris A. Neil Jr.'s
 "Chicago's Maybelline Story."

50 years of Maybelline-Magic took place in a simple nondescript building in Chicago



2. THE VISIBLE MAYBELLINE COMPANY
By Harris A. Niel Jr.

The beige brick building that housed the Maybelline Company in the 1960s was handsome, but nothing unusual. It took on the shape of an arrowhead pointing northward, between two major Chicago streets, Clark and Ridge. The rear, or base, of the arrowhead was bound by a couple of alleyways, forming an irregular base line
.
Entering at the company entrance at 5900 North Ridge Avenue, there was a main-floor foyer with a terrazzo floor and paneled walls. A semi-circular stair with curved brass rail rose out of sight to a second-floor office and reception area. Behind the receptionist window was a general office area where about a dozen people worked. Opposite the receptionist was a door leading to a group of four executive offices. That was it.


Back to the lower-level foyer, another door led to the main-floor operating areas. First, the Traffic and Shipping Departments were in adjoining spaces, convenient to a “dumb-waiter” device that dropped orders from the general office above to the lower area. Further into the plant, the “Assembly Room” came along, where maybe 50 ladies at individual work desks assembled thousands of packages of Maybelline products by hand daily. The room was set up with a supervisor’s desk in front, with assemblers in rows across the room, similar to a school classroom or study hall. Hazel Peterson, the supervisor, stopped any chit-chat if it got anywhere near disruptive.

An arrowhead pointing North
In addition to the Assembly Room, machine packaging was beginning to emerge. There were two smaller rooms, former retail store spaces, that were set up to produce this new packaging. One room packaged the medium-sized cake and cream mascaras and pencils onto gold cards, putting them first into blisters or “bubbles,” then stapling them to the card.

The second store-front room contained a machine that sealed products in blisters to cards by a dielectric sealing process. Several newer products went to market from this room, including the “Brush ‘N Comb,” automatic self-sharpening pencil and refill, and the brand new liquid “Magic Mascara” and refill. The latter was proving to be a smash hit in the marketplace, and we were still running behind to keep pace with demand when I started.

To the rear of these operating areas, there was a small warehouse and staging area for materials in and out of the shipping and assembly operations, and the sole truck dock. This dock was the connecting point for all in-and-out movement, all of it by truck.

Moving into the building from the dock, a freight elevator led to the basement warehouse and storage area. Most of the basement was Maybelline territory, except for the building utilities and storage cubicles for the apartment tenants. To call this space a “warehouse” gives the wrong picture, because it was a low-ceiling basement throughout. This limited storage on pallets to about six-foot height. Even at that, the space was randomly cut into smaller spaces by walls that may have made sense in some earlier time, but no longer did.

And that was the Maybelline “footprint,” part of three levels of the building. Also, there was a line of active retail store space along the Clark Street frontage. Starting with the “arrowhead,” a Rexall drug store occupied the point of the building, wrapping around to the Ridge Avenue frontage. Also, in no order, there was a barber shop, a short-order restaurant, an ice cream store, a hardware store and finally a “currency exchange,” a sort of check-cashing service.

Elsewhere, there were several dozen apartments on the upper two floors of the building. Many of the residents were also Maybelline employees, so they only had to go downstairs to go to work!
Over the years leading up to the merger with Plough in 1967, Maybelline edged into more of both the retail and residential space in the building as growth dictated. Finally, there were no retail spaces, Maybelline had moved into the whole main level of the building. In addition, Maybelline had expanded the office space to create a new Advertising Department, and expanded the Sales Department to provide offices for two Assistant Sales Managers. In the final years it also expanded to include the Computer Department, an IBM main frame computer with input punch-card equipment and a staff of three.

As Magic Mascara came along early in this period, the company hired a cosmetic chemist named Julius Wagman to formulate and refine the new product, with the plan to set up manufacturing and filling facilities on site. In fact, Julius did exactly that, with a specialized facility carved out of one of the old retail store spaces. That is, until the City of Chicago fire inspector paid a visit one day. They determined that, while the liquid product was harmless in a small package, it was volatile and taboo in manufacturing and storage quantities. 


Magic Mascara
We were operating against city code in that location. That was the end of that, and immediately Julius and John had to line up an outside source to supply us on a “private label” basis. This was a setback, but it only put Magic Mascara into the same orbit as every other Maybelline formulated product: An outside source would supply us, leaving Maybelline as a packager and distributor of its own products, but not a manufacturer. 

Harris A. Neil Jr. with a friend, in Maui
This little exercise has been both a joy and a challenge, but in any event it wouldn't couldn't--have happened without your book as a compass. The Maybelline book gave me a perspective that I’d lived without for all these 50-plus years, and that helped me immensely as I gathered both the thoughts and the materials that sit ready to head your way. Thanks, your book is the unseen hand guiding mine in whatever you see written here.

Mad Men Returns Which Means Don Draper Is On The Prowl ...

The Emmy and Golden Globe Award-winning drama Mad Men, Season 5, Premiere's this Sun., Mar. 25 at 9pm, ET/PT.   

I love the fact Man Men is vintage 1960's, in the Advertising Industry.  I hate the fact, that the era was so so sexist.... and back then, I had no idea what was going on.


Do you remember, Maybelline's Magic Mascara, with it's totally new Spiral Brush in 1960.




and the bubble hairdo.  That was my life as a teenager. Big rollers, mascara, pale lipstick and looking for the perfect guy to make all my dreams come true!!!

1960 Maybelline ad in Glamour Magazine
Be sure to watch Mad Men, season 5, on Sunday, and if you haven't been following it,  catch up on all the seasons with Netflix.  It's one of the best shows on TV,  especially if you love vintage.  (And, especially because there are so few quality shows on TV today.)

Maybelline ad, 1960.

 According to Maybelline marketing man, Rags Ragland, "A woman's greatest asset is a     
          man's imagination."....."
That sum's up, early 1960s advertising and a woman's role in a man's world.

Read all about my life in the 1960s and how I was so influenced by Rags Ragland's phrase... Maybelline... and advertising...  Pick up your copy of The Maybelline Story today.  You won't be able to put it down.

Maybelline Brand-merchandising in the 1930's, is common place today.

Maybelline products, mounted on a card, and placed on display racks, for easy accessibility, was the brain child of Maybelline's marketing man, Rags Ragland, in 1935.


What we consider common merchandising today, actually began at the Maybelline Company, as a way to display their products and gain more attention.



Vintage Maybelline eye-shadow, placed on a card in 1935.



Today when we go to a store, all Brands are displayed this way, but 80 years ago, products were haphazardly thrown on a shelf, causing, great frustration, for the consumer and the sales team.








Carded merchandise extended the promotional impact of Maybelline, increased impulse buying, attracted customer's attention,organized products, enhanced shoppability and drove sales, to a higher bottom line. 



By the 1950's and 60's, all beauty products were carded and set on free-standing, twirling racks, also the brainchild of Maybelline's Rag's Ragland.



 By 1964,  ULTRA LASH MASCARA, was  born, taking the place of Maybelline's first wand mascara,  MAGIC MASCARA.  Some of you might remember buying a carded Maybelline ULTRA LASH,  for 69 cents. 

                             Those were the day's..



 Before ULTRA LASH,  the little red box, with a black cake of Maybelline, or this Maybelline cream mascara, was the only choice available to ladies.




This is what a 1950's, make-up bag was filled with, when Maybelline was advertised television for the first time and no longer a little mail order business, advertised in the classifieds. 



Maybelline has remained a Giant in the cosmetic field, as well The King, of Advertising and Marketing.



Thank you for following the Maybelline Blog, tell your friends and be sure to get your copy of The Maybelline Story, you will love it !!!!