Maybelline founder Tom Lyle Williams

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The Maybelline Story: And the Spirited Family Dynasty Behind It

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History of Mascara



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Our Beauty P.I. series is where Makeup.com editor Alanna delves into the history of various makeup products — where they originated from and how they’ve evolved. Next up on the list is the conception of mascara.9

The human body has a knack for genius traits, and one of its best traits is its ability to protect itself from outside harm. Take hair, for example: It’s a natural defense system that coats the skin and is meant to keep bacteria at bay. Another similar protecting barrier? Eyelashes. Meant to divert, protect and defend the precious sclera and cornea, lashes are a lot more than just a charming feature.

Mascara: The OG Protector

This is why it’s actually no surprise that mascara was one of the first makeup products to exist — it was created as another layer and practical mean of protection around the eye. The precursor to what we know as mascara began way back when — around 4000 BC in Ancient Egypt. Beauty gurus would use mixtures of kohl and ointments to darken and accentuate the lashes, and this OG version even helped protect the eyes from bright sunlight, Marie Claire reports. Like many things in the ancient world, these early mascara practices also coincided with spiritual phenomena: Not only is the mascara a protectant of the physical eye, but also a shield to ward off any bad juju — and although archaic, that’s something we can stiill get behind.

But the origin of mascara doesn’t stop there. Ancient Romans also had a heavy hand in the practice of darkening lashes, and the first Persian-founded cosmetology school taught women how to formulate their own mascaras around 900 BCE, Popsugar Beauty reports. With the major rise in makeup (and Queen Liz-inspired red locks) centuries later during the Elizabethan Era, women began experimenting with dyeing their lashesusing berries and fireplace soot (pretty is as pretty does, I suppose).

The Rise of the Formula as We Know It

Although ambiguous, the term “mascara” is thought to have been derived from Spanish, Portuguese and Italian words, màscara and maschera, meaning mask or stain. The first modern predecessor to mascara as we know it came from a French chemist named Eugène Rimmel, yep — saying it louder for those in the back: that Rimmel — for Queen Victoria. What was finally different about Rimmel’s formula was that he used the newly invented petroleum jelly, which he mixed with coal to create the new mascara formula — and bingo, modern mascara was born.

As the 20th century rolled around, American businessman Thomas Lyle Williams created a similar mascara product for his sister Maybel, and by 1917 he had his first cosmetic mail order business selling Lash-Brow-Ine. This applicable mascara was the very first marketable mascara in the cosmetic industry, and soon its name changed to a familiar one we know and love:Maybelline — after Ms. Williams herself, *yep, mind blown.*

Without surprise, mascara became a household item in the cosmetics world, with bigger beauty giants jumping on the trend, like makeup maven Helena Rubinstein. Even more interesting, the original design of the first mascaras came in cake form where the product was packed into a palette and sold with a small brush (you can even buy one here!). And with the rise of Hollywood actresses, costume makeup and false lashes of the 30s, mascara transformed from practical to coveted, and it’s this versatility that has allowed it to be one of the most-sought after makeup products for just about everyone who wears makeup.

It wasn’t until the 1960s that mascara evolved into tube form, thanks to Rubinstein’s Mascara- Matic and Maybelline Ultra-Lash. The tube truly revolutionized mascara and forever changed the way in which we apply and use it. Mascara finally achieved the ultimate makeup goal: It became totally effortless.

Lashes on Fleek

Today, mascara still transforms its wearer, but even more so than ever before: Now it enhances, lengthens, thickens, curls and darkens (or even colors blue or purple or burgundy). Mascara is one of those astonishing makeup products that has come full circle, beginning as a fierce protector of the eyes against sunlight and terrain, and becoming a must-have for all kinds of makeup gurus out there.

There’s a reason why mascara is often one of the first makeup products beauty amateurs reach for. With the swipe of its wand, it makes you feel that little bit of magic that is makeup



Thomas Lyle Williams Sr (January 19, 1896 – September 26, 1976) was an American businessman. He was the founder of Maybelline cosmetics.[1]







Thomas Lyle Williams was born in Morganfield, Kentucky, in 1896 to Thomas "TJ" Jefferson and Susan Williams.[2] In 1912 he married Bennie Gibbs, with whom he had one son, Thomas Lyle Williams Jr (1912–1978), who was to become the General Partner at Williams Investments and President at Maybelline Co, Chicago.[3] The marriage did not last long, however, and after it was annulled, Williams moved to Chicago and there met Emery Shaver (September 15, 1903 – October 22, 1964), who was working part time in advertising while studying literature at University of Chicago.[4]

In Chicago, Williams first went to work for Montgomery Ward, a firm printing a mail-order catalog founded in 1872. After Montgomery Ward, he opened his own mail-order business.[4]

In 1915, Williams, then 19 years old, seeing his sister Mabel using a homemade mixture of petroleum jelly, coal dust and burnt cork to darken her eyelashes, had the idea to create a commercial product to enhance the eyes.[5][6] His own attempt was not a success but then he commissioned a drug manufacturer, and the resulting product was something that he could sell: the Lash-Brow.[5]

In 1917 Williams started producing eyebrow beautifier and cake eyelash, calling the product Maybelline, inspired by his sister Mabel.[7][8] Maybelline was the first mascara produced in America.[9] In 1929 Williams expanded the production to eye shadow and eyebrow pencils.[10]

After World War II Maybelline became an international venture. Williams moved to California with his life partner, Emery Shaver. They bought Rudolph Valentino's house in the Hollywood Hills.[10] Shaver and Williams were in charge of advertising for the company, and in particular Shaver contracted the movie stars of the time to promote Maybelline products. The headquarters of Maybelline remained in Chicago.[11] When Shaver died in 1964, Williams was deeply affected by the loss. He sold the business in 1968. In 2001, Maybelline became "Maybelline New York".[12][11]

Williams died in Los Angeles, California in 1976. Shaver and himself are buried together at Forest Lawn Memorial Park, Glendale, in the Columbarium of Memories.[13]

Sources:
Williams & Youngs 2011, p. Preface.
Williams & Youngs 2011, p. Chapter 1, Inventing Tom Lyle Williams.
Flowers, Pugh Brown; Flowers, John Baxton (2000). Flowers chronicles: studies of Captain John Flower II, 1595–1657, mariner of London, Bermuda, and Virginia, and some of his descendants in the American South. Gateway Press. p. 440. Retrieved 28 July 2017.
Williams & Youngs 2011, p. Chapter 2, A Thousand Dimes a Day.
Williams & Youngs 2011, p. Chapter 3, A Secret from the Harem.
Wilson, Sheena; Carlson, Adam; Szeman, Imre (2017). Petrocultures: Oil, Politics, Culture. McGill-Queen's Press – MQUP. p. 110. ISBN 978-0-7735-5040-7. Retrieved 28 July 2017.
Williams & Youngs 2011, p. Chapter 4, The Little Red Box.
Snodgrass, Mary Ellen (2015). World Clothing and Fashion: An Encyclopedia of History, Culture, and Social Influence. Routledge. p. 427. ISBN 978-1-317-45166-2. Retrieved 28 July 2017.
Williams & Youngs 2011, p. Chapter 22, Rags and Riches.
Williams & Youngs 2011, p. Chapter 13, This, You Gotta See.
"Maybelline Mascara by Maybelline Co. Distr., c. 1940s". Retrieved 28 July 2017.
Williams & Youngs 2011, p. Chapter 57, Glory.
"MAYBELLINE STORY BLOG: Maybelline founder Tom Lyle Williams". Retrieved 23 August 2017.

Williams & Youngs 2011 = Williams, Sharrie; Youngs, Bettie (2011). The Maybelline Story: And the Spirited Family Dynasty Behind It. SCB Distributors. ISBN 978-1-936332-17-5. 


Maybelline, Cosmetic Queen for over a Century


Maybelline products, mounted on a card, and placed on display racks, for easy accessibility, was the brain child of Maybelline's marketing man, Rags Ragland, in 1935.


What we consider common merchandising today, actually began at the Maybelline Company, as a way to display their products and gain more attention.


Vintage Maybelline eye-shadow, placed on a card in 1935.



Today when we go to a store, all Brands are displayed this way, but 80 years ago, products were haphazardly thrown on a shelf, causing, great frustration, for the consumer and the sales team.








Carded merchandise extended the promotional impact of Maybelline, increased impulse buying, attracted customer's attention,organized products, enhanced shoppability and drove sales, to a higher bottom line. 


By the 1950's and 60's, all beauty products were carded and set on free-standing, twirling racks, also the brainchild of Maybelline's Rag's Ragland.


 By 1964,  ULTRA LASH MASCARA, was  born, taking the place of Maybelline's first wand mascara,  MAGIC MASCARA.  Some of you might remember buying a carded Maybelline ULTRA LASH,  for 69 cents.  
                             Those were the day's..



 Before ULTRA LASH,  the little red box, with a black cake of Maybelline, or this Maybelline cream mascara, was the only choice available to ladies.




This is what a 1950's, make-up bag was filled with, when Maybelline was advertised television for the first time and no longer a little mail order business, advertised in the classifieds. 


Maybelline has remained a Giant in the cosmetic field, as well The King, of Advertising and Marketing.


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